God’s Own Country
‘God’s Own Country’-this is how Kerala- now Keralam- describes itself, and this is exactly how it felt when I first visited it in the year 2001.
Lush greenery along the roads, the beaches of Kovalam ,the backwaters of Alleppey, the undulating tea estates of Munnar—its own hill station, the elephants in the jungles of Periyar, the lakes itself. This along with ancient temples of Trivandrum and other places with equally ancient rituals, the spice gardens, dense coconut groves, Ayurvedic massages, a landscape dotted with water, vegetation and small private houses. Kerala draws you in. It draws you in deeply.
In the last 25 years, I have revisited Kerala four times, and each visit was rewarded with a new facet of this ancient land. The people of Kerala are equally warm and welcoming, making each visit so much more memorable.
In all these visits, one place I had touched but never explored was Kochi, and it remained on my wish list for a long time. So when an opportunity presented itself to visit Kochi for the Kochi-Muziris Biennale, I was more than eager to explore this ancient port city on the coast of the Arabian Sea.
Kochi: The Port Born of a Flood
Kochi became an important port in the early 14th century, when a mighty flood on the Periyar River destroyed the other ancient port of Muziris—a place from which trade extended to Romans, Arabs, and Jews.
Kochi was one of the first ports on the Arabian Sea where Europeans, including the famous Vasco da Gama, arrived directly by sea route for trade, put up their factories and eventually established settlement by taking over the land.
Fort Kochi – the European settlement, and Mattancherry-its Indian counterpart since saw many rulers. Starting with the Portuguese in the 1500s, then the Dutch with local allies in 1668, then Mysore, the British, and finally the Government of India. In the meantime, it developed that special character which makes port towns so vibrant.
I have been privileged to visit quite a few such port cities— Fort area in Mumbai, Pondicherry near Tamil Nadu, Old Goa on the Konkan coast, Diu near Gujrat ,Korlai near Alibaug .Each one has its own character and unique layers to uncover. I was excited to uncover the layers Kochi had to offer
Fort Kochi: European Order, Indian Soul
We landed at the fully solar-powered Kochi Airport in the late afternoon. Most airports we visit are contemporary glass-and-steel structures with a globalised style and language. This particular airport, though, embraces the vernacular. With wood, stone, and tiled roofs the airport announces its pride in the soil and culture it stands on.
By the time we reached our homestay at Fort Kochi, it was night, and we retired soon to our bed chambers.
Fresh, excited, and ready to explore the town of Fort Kochi the next day, we started with an early morning walk. This led us to the banks of the backwaters in the north. This is where the fishermen were busy with a series of Chinese fishing nets. It was delightful to watch these huge bamboo-and-net structures being lowered into the water and pulled back with the help of ropes, catching that early fish.
We roamed around the streets of Fort Kochi in the morning breeze,quiet streets and fresh sun. Here the cobbled stone streets are lined with beautiful vernacular Buildings.These are laid in a grid- giving that distinct European-port-meets-Indian-vernacular vibe. Most of these buildings, once homes to people, are now shops, cafés, and boutique hotels. The deserted morning streets gave us the best time to click some pictures.
We returned to our stay for a sumptuous breakfast lovingly served by our host. Puttu, a local Kerala delicacy made from rice and coconut and served with chana masala, was a great start to the day ahead.
Biennale, Churches and Colonial Echoes
In the next two days, we explored Fort Kochi and Mattancherry, with visits to the exhibits of the Biennale, where the whole town became the venue for display. As I mentioned earlier , Fort Kochi was a Dutch settlement, and its character reflects that—huge maidans, bright colours, colonial windows. Everything here looks curated, yet there is a vibrancy which is found only in a port town.
We happened upon a spirited local band outside a boutique hotel one evening, with young visitors dancing to its beats — a reminder that Kochi is as contemporary as it is historic.
Unlike Pondicherry, which I visited a year ago — where White Town feels serene and restrained — Fort Kochi pulses with life, its streets animated and constantly in motion.
We visited Saint Francis Church, built first by the Portuguese and where Vasco da Gama was originally buried and later moved. This church was later rebuilt by the Dutch in local style.
We also visited Jail of the Freedom Struggle, now displaying exhibitions in each cell, telling the story of the mighty British rule and its crushing power.
We walked on the streets along the water, with beautiful buildings on both sides. These were once warehouses of trade, now turned into hotels, cafés, and during the Biennale, venues for display of the art.
Mattancherry: Spice Routes and Synagogue Silence
As we walked further, there was a perceptible change in flavour—both of the atmosphere and of the spices. This street gently enters Mattancherry, the local settlement where the Dutch built a palace for the king and where the king gave Jews a place for a synagogue.
Here you find the streets lined up with shops selling spices, perfumes, and local handlooms. And you realise why Europeans came to India in the first place. The market still flourishes after all these centuries. The atmosphere is that of a local bazaar,abuzz with visitors, sellers, and shoppers alike. Each shop entices you with what it has to offer. There are some vendors selling beautiful paintings and others selling local crafts.
The street leads you to various cafés—some adorned with local crafts, others with contemporary art; some with a view of the sea, others with a museum of their own.Each of these cafés, both in Fort Kochi and Mattancherry, have unique settings of its own. Here ,some serve authentic Kerala thali, others are purely vegan, some dish out North Indian delicacies, others more continental. Even for vegetarian souls like us, there was so much to explore in terms of food in this seaside town.
As you reach the synagogue, now managed by a single remaining Jew of the town, a pedestrian shopping street prepares you for the quiet inside the place.
If Fort Kochi shows vibrant European discipline ,Mattancherry displays an eclectic mix of local culture.
Theyyam: When Divinity Descends
After an evening stroll on the beach with the sunset, we visited Kochi Folklore Odeum , a theatre for Kathakali, Kalari Pattu and Theyyam performance. This became the highlight of the day.
Some of us stayed back for Kalari Pattu and Theyyam performance after the usually delightful Kathakali performance depicting a story from mythology,
Kalari Pattu, the ancient martial art from Kerala, is a performance that draws admiration for the agility, speed, and strength of the performers.
And after this, it was time for Theyyam- meaning Deva—an art form performed more as an expression than a dance. It is inherited by the performer through lineage in a particular community and is an art form which is more of an expression than a performance.
As the performance started, the entire energy of the place shifted. We were witnessing something very raw and energetic, which mesmerised and frightened us both at the same time. The jumps, the turns, and the sound altogether made the air vibrant. And the mood shifted from admiration to awe.
As the performance ended, it felt as if the man before us had dissolved into something beyond himself. The costume, the paint, the fire in his eyes — all of it seemed to carry a presence older than memory.
Kochi has seen traders, conquerors, rulers, and empires. Portuguese, Dutch, British — each left their mark. Warehouses became cafés. Ports became museums.
But when Theyyam began, none of that mattered. The energy in the air belonged to something far older than colonial timelines. And in that charged silence after the last movement, I understood — Keralam is not just about its waters and greenery. It is about a land where divinity is still allowed to descend into a human body, if only for a few trembling moments
Perhaps that is why Kerala calls itself God’s Own Country — because here, divinity is not preserved in stone. It is performed, inherited, and lived.
Gallery
Places to Visit
Fort Kochi Beach & Chinese Fishing Nets
Fort Kochi Beach is not merely a stretch of sand; it is where the town meets memory. The Chinese fishing nets stand tall against the Arabian Sea, their bamboo arms suspended in patient rhythm, rising and falling with the tide. Introduced centuries ago by traders, they continue to function as living relics of maritime exchange. There is no ticket, no gate — only the open sky and the slow choreography of fishermen at work. At sunset, when the nets turn into silhouettes against a molten horizon, the scene feels suspended between past and present.
St. Francis Church
A short walk from the shore stands St. Francis Church, quiet and unassuming, yet layered with history. Built in the early 1500s by the Portuguese, it once held the remains of Vasco da Gama before they were taken back to Portugal. The structure is simple, almost austere, its whitewashed walls bearing the weight of centuries. There is no entry fee, only a gentle invitation to step inside and feel the stillness that lingers in its wooden pews and high, sloping roof.
Santa Cruz Basilica
Santa Cruz Basilica rises with a different presence — grand, ornate, almost theatrical in comparison. Established by the Portuguese and later elevated to a basilica, its interiors are adorned with painted ceilings, arches, and stained glass. Entry is free, and the doors remain open to visitors. Standing inside, one feels the sweep of European influence meeting tropical light, a reminder of how cultures arrived and stayed.
Indo-Portuguese Museum
Within the Bishop’s House complex, the Indo-Portuguese Museum preserves fragments of a shared past — altarpieces, vestments, sculptures, and relics that speak of exchange rather than mere occupation. A modest ticket grants entry into rooms where art and faith intertwined across oceans. It is less about grandeur and more about nuance — the subtle merging of Portuguese form and Kerala craftsmanship.
Mattancherry Palace (Dutch Palace)
In Mattancherry, the so-called Dutch Palace reveals itself quietly behind a modest exterior. Built by the Portuguese and later renovated by the Dutch, it holds within it extraordinary murals that narrate epics and royal life. A small ticket allows you to wander through its wooden halls. The real treasure lies in the walls themselves — painted stories that glow softly in filtered light, echoing devotion and artistry.
Paradesi Synagogue
At the end of Jew Street stands the Paradesi Synagogue, built in 1568, a testament to Kochi’s once-thriving Jewish community. Entry requires a ticket and respectful attire, but once inside, the atmosphere shifts to hushed reverence. Belgian chandeliers hang overhead, and hand-painted Chinese tiles spread across the floor like individual signatures of history. It feels intimate, almost fragile, yet enduring.
Jew Street
Jew Street is alive with scent before sight — pepper, cardamom, old wood, and varnish mingling in the air. Antique shops, spice merchants, perfumeries, and handicraft stores line the narrow lane, recalling centuries when traders arrived here in search of flavour and fortune. There is no entry fee, only the invitation to wander slowly and allow the street to unfold its layered stories.
Waterfront Warehouses of Fort Kochi
Walking along the waterfront, one encounters former warehouses that once held the wealth of the spice trade. Today, many have been reborn as boutique hotels, galleries, and cafés, their thick walls and heavy doors preserved. There is no formal entry, yet stepping into these spaces feels like crossing a threshold between eras — commerce softened into culture.
Sunset at Fort Kochi Beach
As evening approaches, Fort Kochi Beach gathers people quietly, almost ceremonially. The Chinese fishing nets darken into silhouettes while the sky blushes in shades of amber and violet. There is nothing structured about this experience, no ticket or programme — only the simple act of watching light fade over water. It is a daily ritual, unspoken yet shared.
Sunset at Vypin Island
Across the water, Vypin Island offers a wider embrace of the horizon. From near the lighthouse or along the coastline toward Cherai, the panorama unfolds — sea, harbour, distant skyline, and scattered islands. A small ticket may grant access to the lighthouse view, but even at ground level, the expanse feels liberating. Here, Kochi reveals itself not as a single town but as an archipelago stitched together by water.
Durbar Hall Ground
Durbar Hall Ground in Ernakulam carries a quiet colonial elegance, once part of the royal residence of the Maharaja of Cochin and now functioning as a cultural and exhibition space. The open expanse, framed by old trees and heritage architecture, feels unhurried — a place where the city slows down for a moment. Just beside it stands the ancient Ernakulathappan Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, its traditional Kerala-style structure offering a stark yet harmonious contrast to the colonial hall. Together, they create a rare coexistence of royal history and sacred stillness in the heart of the city.
Kathakali Theatres in Kochi
Kochi Folklore Odeum
A beautifully designed heritage-style theatre and museum space. The setting itself enhances the experience of watching Kerala’s ritual art forms.
Kerala Kathakali Centre
One of the most respected spaces in Fort Kochi for authentic Kathakali performances. They also offer demonstrations explaining the gestures, expressions and costume preparation before the show.
Greenix Village
A popular cultural theatre showcasing Kathakali along with other classical art forms. The performances are structured for visitors while retaining traditional depth.
Santa Cruz Basilica Parish Hall
Occasionally hosts Kathakali and cultural performances in Fort Kochi. The location adds historical charm to the evening.
David Hall Art Gallery & Cafe
Primarily an art and cultural venue, it sometimes features classical performances during festivals and special events.
These theatres make it easy to include a Kathakali evening in your Fort Kochi itinerary — an art form that feels less like entertainment and more like witnessing mythology come alive.
With several theatres in Fort Kochi hosting Kathakali and Theyyam, we chose to spend our evening at Kochi Folklore Odeum.
Cafes to explore
Kerala Cafe
Kerala Cafe in Fort Kochi serves traditional Kerala meals in a relaxed heritage setting. It is a good place to taste local flavours without distraction, letting the simplicity of the cuisine speak for itself.
Rasoi
Rasoi offers North Indian vegetarian comfort food in the middle of Fort Kochi’s coastal landscape. It feels familiar and grounding after long walks through history.
Loving Earth Café
Loving Earth Café focuses on organic and vegan dishes in a quiet, unhurried space. It is ideal for lighter meals and reflective conversations.
Pandhal Café & Deli
Pandhal Café & Deli blends European café culture with Fort Kochi’s artistic vibe. It works beautifully for slow breakfasts and coffee breaks between explorations.
Coriander Café
Coriander Café offers a simple mix of Indian and continental dishes. It is convenient, easy, and fits naturally into a day of wandering.
Gokul Oottupura
Located near Durbar Hall in Ernakulam, Gokul Oottupura serves authentic vegetarian Kerala meals in a straightforward, traditional manner. It is satisfying and unpretentious.
Kashi Art Café
Kashi Art Café combines art and coffee in a sunlit courtyard setting. It remains one of Fort Kochi’s most loved creative spaces.
Qissa Café
Qissa Café is cosy and intimate, known for good coffee and comforting desserts. A gentle pause from the heat outside.
Loafer’s Corner Café
Loafer’s Corner Café offers balcony seating overlooking Princess Street. It is perfect for people-watching and slowing down.
French Toast
French Toast serves European-style breakfasts and brunch in a contemporary setting near St. Francis Church. A good reset before continuing your walk.
Teapot Café
Teapot Café charms with vintage décor and a thoughtful tea selection. It feels quiet and tucked away.
East India Street Café
East India Street Café offers a fusion menu in a calmer corner of Fort Kochi. A pleasant stop away from the busiest lanes
What a wonderful walk through the streets of the historical coastal town of Kochi. Your travel piece not only provides the readers with vivid sensory details but also takes them on an extraordinary journey of cultural immersion. Compliments for yet another evocative travelogue 👏👏❤️