Childhood Memories of Varanasi
I visited Varanasi as a child in 1982. It was during that time that I had my own audience with God. But more on that later.
As an adult, Varanasi resurfaced in my life as an academic study while I was researching my thesis topic during my Masters. I was, of course, fascinated by the images, the text, and the history. To say that I wanted to revisit it as an adult for the longest time would be an understatement.
Revisiting the City After 40 Years
Ultimately, I planned to visit the oldest living city after 40 years, in November 2022. A slow crescendo had been building over the years, where I discovered the cultural significance of the place through various mediums. Watercolors and oil canvases depicting its famed ghats, pictures and paintings of its sadhus, literary geniuses like Tulsidas and Kabir who hailed from the city, and the world-famous musicians nurtured in its lanes through the gharana tradition.
The various aspects of Varanasi are as amusing as they are amazing. It also encompasses the weavers of the famous Banarasi saree, the paan that Amitabh Bachchan swears by in the movie Don. It presents modern toys carved and painted that become beautiful souvenirs, and the philosophers who once debated shastras on the banks of the mighty and serene Ganga. Manikarnika Ghat, where the rituals of death are an everyday affair, adds another layer to its rich tapestry.
And, above all, it is the abode of Shiva and Parvati, established after Mount Kailas.
Everything you learn about this place can make your desire to visit stronger. I felt a similar pull for Pushkar, another town shaped by faith and ritual.
The expectations were so high that one started dreading the opposite. What if it falls short? However, once you reach Varanasi, the place doesn’t disappoint; it delights you and immerses you in its own atmosphere. It offers more than one could have ever heard or read.
This was the place I knew I would want to explore fully and get to know it better to make the most of my visit. And I’ve long realized that the best way to engage with a place and truly understand it is to take a walk with a local expert. We had these walks planned with different people, one for Sarnath and others for the ghats and lanes that are best traversed with guidance.
Walking the Lanes with Jeremy
Here we came across Jeremy, a local expert from the U.S. Yes, he is an American settled in India and the best guide anyone could have to explore Varanasi.
Jeremy, or J as he prefers to be called, is more local than any local you will meet. It was a delight to explore the lanes, the old temples, and places that don’t feature on the tourist circle with him. He had stories for each place we visited and knew his history well. He took us to places that would never feature on the to-do list of Varanasi, yet each place was as interesting and delightful as the more popular ones.
He led us to Lolark Stepwell, Tulsidas’s house, Sankat Mochan Temple. We also explored weaver’s lanes traversing the southern part of the city, each with its own story. He spoke about the child-giving powers of Lolark Well and how people flock to it from all walks of life, seeking blessings for a child. Tulsidas’s house has its own stories, ofcourse. We visited Gorakshnath Mandir, Sankata Mandir, and hidden gems like Bindu Madhav Mandir in the north, each with its share of stories. It was amazing the way he guided us through lanes reaching various ghats and palaces built along the ghats, all the while telling us stories of princes and gods from history, mythology, and the Tantra traditions.He amazed us with his knowledge about Kabir and his encounter with his guru Ramananda when we reached the ashram.
The 88 ghats that line the serene flow of the Ganga each tell a different story. Every ghat has its own patron and its own cultural, spiritual, and ritual significance. Boats glide gently along the river, offering a sweeping view of the ghats. I experienced the Ganga in a very different form at its source, Gomukh.
Cultural and Spiritual Immersion
That we were guided and told stories about our own culture by a foreigner who has adopted this place as his own tells us so much about the power and layers the place has. It was amazing to understand my own history through a Western eye, someone who probably knew it better than any local because of his quest to get to know this place better and engage with the population. With his quest and engagement, he ensured that he had access to places that perhaps only a few people would have. Of course, being white helps as far as hospitality in India is concerned, that aside Jeremy is a genuine seeker. The fact that he guides the curious is an advantage for the visitor. Our energy could not match his enthusiasm, and we had to conclude the day late in the night.
A visit to Varanasi is always going to be a delightful affair, both for the faithful and for a traveler. But a day with Jeremy made my first visit much more meaningful. The better you know the place, the stronger the calling for the next visit will be.
Varanasi takes you in, making you wander its lanes, explore its history and myth, taste its cuisine, take home the crafts, revel in its arts, meditate on the ghats, and just make yourself one with the atmosphere. As I heard a long time ago from someone I admire, ‘Banaras ki hawa mein kuch alag hi nasha hai’ — I couldn’t agree more.”
Exploring Varanasi: Must-Visit Temples, Enchanting Ghats & Unique Experiences
Top 12 Must-Visit Temples in Varanasi
- Kashi Vishvanath Mandir: It is safe to claim that in the city where every residence houses a temple, every major sect has its own temple and every deity has found a place in diverse and beautiful structures in lanes and ghats ,Kashi Vishwanath Mandir is the most important of them all. The city belongs to Vishwanath.With newly developed corridor and Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple Trust Helpdesk on Gyanvapi Road , darshan is becoming much easier. Advice to book darshan through the temple website in advance. A purohit accompanies people who buy tickets. Of course the faithful can do darshan without a ticket entering from lane no 4.
- Annapurna Mata Mandir: This one is just behind Kashi Vishwanath Mandir and is a beautiful temple with powerful deity.Annapoorna is another avatar of Devi Parvati. Find more here.
- Vishalakshi Mandir: This one is one of the shatipeeths in Varanasi. A form of Goddess Annapurna, this temple deity is worshiped mainly by pilgrims coming from southern states of India. Devouts offer sarees and take back sarees as prasad.
- Bindu Madhav Mandir: This temple stood where Alamgir temple stand now.The deity was moved to a nearby haveli before the old temple was razed. This is one of the five Madhav temples spread across India. Again a very powerful deity. This temple is near to Ramanand Ashram where Sant Kabir met and then learnt from his Guru Ramanand.
- Kal Bhairav Mandir: Dedicated to Varanasi’s guardian deity and Vishalakshi’s Bhiarava. Situated on the margins of the ancient settlement Kal Bhairav is a powerful god offering protection to the city.
- Sankat Mochan Mandir: This is Hanuman temple which is supposed to be swayambhu. It is said that Lord Hanuman gave guidance to Tulsidas and sent him to Chitrakoot to meet Lord Ram from here.
- Gorakshnath Mandir : This temple belongs to Nath sect and is a beautiful setting.Away from the narrow lanes of the city this temple must have been outside the ancient lanes where the sect followed its own traditions. Interesting stories to be heard here.
- BHU Kashi Vishwanath Mandir : A fairly recent one for the ancient city ,this one is at the core of Banaras Hindu University campus. Grand and modern in its design, this one is away from the everyday chaos of the city.
- Sankata Devi Mandir : Hidden in the lanes and away from regular visitors this one offers devout protection from sankat. Powerful in its manifestation this place should be visited in the evening.
- Lolark Well: Known for its power to grant boon to childless,this stepwell in the southern part is visited by the faithful from all walks of life to seek that boon of child. It is interesting the way it looks like shivling in the negative.
- Nepali Tola: Right near Kashi Vishwanath Ghat is Nepali tola where a beautiful red temple in wood and brick stands on a small hillock near the river. Built by Nepali King this place offers serene setting near the Ganga.
- Tulsi Das’s house : Located near Assi Ghat and at the Tulsi Ghat this is where great sage Tulsidas lived since the powers that be demanded that he live outside the city and this ghat is just outside. This is where he wrote the manuscript of Ramcharitmans.
Exploring the Sacred Ganges: 10 Must-Visit Ghats in Varanasi
Varanasi has more than 88 ghats on river Ganga. The ghats have inspired many painters to paint, many photographers to explore, many visitors to sit and watch and philosophers to meditate.Many of the ghats are built by kings of different states of india in distinct style belonging to that particular state. Though all ghats seamlessly connect to each other here is the list of ghats one must visit.
- Dashashamedh Ghat : This is where ganga aarti in the evening takes place. Busy in the morning with rituals and in the evening with Ganga aarti, this one wakes up early and goes to sleep late.life on ghats is to be best explored here. Easily approachable, this one is one of the biggest ghats.
- Manikarnika Ghat: This is one ghat where death is an everyday affair. It is said that the fire at this ghat has been burning since time immortal and pyre is burnt only with this fire. Manikarnika is also where Parvati lost her earring,hence the name. The bustling rituals of death can make anyone philosophical about life.
- PanchGanga Ghat : One of the first ghats on the northern side of the city ,this one is calm,quiet. This is best visited in the morning,when you ca watch locals do there morning rituals of bath, path and pooja .
- Assi Ghat: The Southernmost ghat, here is where Ganga aarti takes place in the morning followed by Subh-e-Banaras where classical music is performed by eminent musicians every morning.
- Mansingh Ghat : Built by Raja Mansingh of Jaipur this one also housed mansingh observatory
- Nepali Tola :Right near Kashi Vishwanath Ghat is Nepali tola where a beautiful red temple in wood and brick stands on a small hillock near the river. Built by Nepali King, this place offers a serene setting near the Ganga.
- Harishchandra Ghat : This one is to be visited for its strong association with the mythology and story of Raja Harishchandra
- Vishwanath Ghat/ Lalita Gauri Ghat/Tripura Bhairavi Ghat: These are beautiful connected ghats which are safe to take bath. Also because of the nearness to the main temple it makes for good place of a holy dip
Unforgettable Experiences: 11 Things to Do in Varanasi
Varanasi can immerse you in its lanes and ghats. Yet there are some activities which can make your exploration more meaningful. Here are some activities and visits you must plan.
- Evening Aarti at Dashashwamedh ghat: This one is beautifully choreographed aarti with conch shells and bells. A must attend activity,this could be watched from ghat or from bajra on the river. An activity to end your day with.
- Subah- e – Banaras : Ganga aarti in the morning at Assi ghat , this one is followed by a performance in classical music by eminent musicians from the city and across the country. And this is a daily activity. A true mirror for a place known for its many gharanas both in music and dance.It also seed the most amazing sunrise on the ghats.
- Boat Ride in the Morning: A boat ride on Ganga in the morning can truly be a joyous affair. The ghats are teeming with activities with both locals and visitors offering prayers,taking a dip or conducting other rituals. Yet the morning is the most quiet part of the day.
- Visit Kabir Chaura and Lanes around: Banaras is also known for its renowned musicians. A visit to Kabir Chaura where Sant Kabir stayed and lanes around it is best done early in the morning when the lanes come to life with riyaz from the masters.
- Museum at Mansingh Observatory : Visit the interactive museum to know the stories, importance and mythology of the place. It is a very good attempt at engaging visitors.
- Holy Dip in Ganga : A dip in the cool soothing waters of Ganga is always rejuvenating and can make you feel part of the atmosphere. Almost all the ghats are suited for taking a dip.
- Abhishek at Kashi Vishwanath Mandir : One can book abhishek from the website or from the helpdesk. Make sure that you are wearing proper clothes for this activity since this is very festive in nature.
- Visit lanes of Madanpura/Lallapura: This is where most weavers weave famous Banarasi on handloom. Visit these to see weavers in action, see hand embroidery getting done.You can also get to buy a discounted saree in these places,though I do recommend buying from an outlet where you can choose from a variety of sarees.
- Sarnath Visit : Plan a visit to Sarnath where Buddha gave his first sermon. The place is as ancient as it can get and has its own beautiful history attached. Built over many centuries this was a place of learning for monks.
Savor the Flavors of Varanasi: 6 Must-Try Foods
- Malaiyo : A dish made with milk , this one is a pure delicacy . Light and frothy ,it is simply delicious to eat.Available only during cool months.
- Blue Lassi : Blue Lassi shop offers flavored lassis and is the coolest place to sit and drink lassi. Situated in one of the lanes ,sitting here can be a joy in itself
- Kashi Chaat Bhandar : Explore the local cuisine with the most famous outlet. Check for Baati Chokha. Note that this place is closed in the afternoons.
- Lemon tea on Ghats : When exploring ghats make sure to drink one of the best lemon tea you will ever get.The ghats are divided amongst the sellers and most of them offer good quality.
- Banarasi Paan : Available at every nook and corner this paan is nothing you have tasted so far. Easy to munch and have every now and then.
- Puri Shaak Breakfast : locals swear by it and this the only local breakfast available in the lanes.Have if you have an appetite for heavy meal to start your day with.
Take Home a Piece of Varanasi: 4 Unique Souvenirs
- Banarasi Saree : The city of Varanasi is famous for the silk saris in the entire world. People from all corners of the world come to this city to shop for these silk saris. One of the most sought after products one can not miss buying these. You will find many varieties of Banarasi silk sarees in various ranges in the market near Dashashwamedh Ghat
- Wooden Toys : Banaras is home to wooden toys crafted fromwood and painted.A variety of toys from figurines to everyday toys are available.This indigenous craft is slowly coming under pressure and best way to suppose it is to buy the product.
- Watercolor Paintings: Many artists offer beautiful watercolors of lanes and ghats of Varanasi on the Ghats.Take home one for the memory.
- Itra ( Perfume) : Search the lanes to find genuine perfume and take home the memories of those lanes.
Amazingly written. Couldn’t agree more on the on the character of Varanasi and how a right lens helps explore the place better.
Our recent visit was an immersive experience and something that would be stay forever with all the layers intact.
Thank you so much for the guidance which was so enthusiastic.
Thanks Hemangini
Wow…what an amazing insite…Loved the way you narrate the whole journey…Feels almost like walking along those bylanes and bygones…
Thanks Nitin.
This write-up just builds upon my long pending “khawahish” too! A big Thank you to the Seeker in you😊
Thanks Nishtha, Hope you visit it soon enough
Would love to visit Varanasi more so after reading this 🙂
Thanks Yakin
Being a design student, visiting Varanasi is like a dream. Your inspirational blog has fueled my wanderlust even more!
Your blog beautifully captures the essence and vibrancy of this ancient city. Thank you for sharing such an enriching experience.
Thank you for appreciating
Didi, very nicely articulated, felt like I m one of the traveler with you. Pls do keep sharing such a wonderful information with us 🙏🏻👍🏻👏🏻
Thanks Pankaj
Good ,Amazing, Interacting,Good filling for all those ur collection of photography and some thing knows new about,Varanaci Spiritual, and traditional from ur blog.
Thanks.
Thanks
Thanks for all this information
Very well written. It’s almost like a trip to Varanasi.
Thanks
Nicely pen down Krushna !!
As if one can feel that he is there ..
Thanks and best wishes.
Keep up the good work.
God bless !!
Thanks Arvinder. Do check other posts too
Very nicely written! Varanasi is on my list of places to travel after reading your blog!
Thank you Ashish. That definitely is a must visit place
Well written. While Varanasi dates back to history of mankind, name stands for combination of river Varuna and Aasi. River Varuna is the existing river and Aasi is no more existing though there is the ghat named after it Aasi Ghat.
That is so true. Though Assi ghat holds Subah e Banaras every morning. You can check more with the links below the blog