I visited Varanasi as a child in 1982. It was during that time that I had my own audience with God. But more on that later.
As an adult, Varanasi resurfaced in my life as an academic study while I was researching my thesis topic during my Masters. I was, of course, fascinated by the images, the text, and the history. To say that I wanted to revisit it as an adult for the longest time would be an understatement.
Ultimately, I planned to visit the oldest living city after 40 years, in November 2022. A slow crescendo had been building over the years, where I discovered the cultural significance of the place through various mediums. Watercolors and oil canvases depicting its famed ghats, pictures and paintings of its sadhus, literary geniuses like Tulsidas and Kabir who hailed from the city, and the world-famous musicians nurtured in its lanes through the gharana tradition.
The various aspects of Varanasi are as amusing as they are amazing.; it also encompasses the weavers of the famous Banarasi saree, the paan that Amitabh Bachchan swears by in the movie Don, modern toys carved and painted that become beautiful souvenirs, and the philosophers who once debated shastras on the banks of the mighty and serene Ganga. Manikarnika Ghat, where the rituals of death are an everyday affair, adds another layer to its rich tapestry. And, above all, it is the abode of Shiva and Parvati, established after Mount Kailas.
Everything you learn about this place can make your desire to visit stronger. The expectations were so high that one started dreading the opposite. What if it falls short? However, once you reach Varanasi, the place doesn’t disappoint; it delights you and immerses you in its own atmosphere. It offers more than one could have ever heard or read.
This was the place I knew I would want to explore fully and get to know it better to make the most of my visit. And I’ve long realized that the best way to engage with a place and truly understand it is to take a walk with a local expert. We had these walks planned with different people, one for Sarnath and others for the ghats and lanes that are best traversed with guidance.
Here we came across Jeremy, a local expert from the U.S. Yes, he is an American settled in India and the best guide anyone could have to explore Varanasi.
Jeremy, or J as he prefers to be called, is more local than any local you will meet. It was a delight to explore the lanes, the old temples, and places that don’t feature on the tourist circle with him. He had stories for each place we visited and knew his history well. He took us to places that would never feature on the to-do list of Varanasi, yet each place was as interesting and delightful as the more popular ones.
He led us to Lolark Stepwell, Tulsidas’s house, Sankat Mochan Temple, and weaver’s lanes traversing the southern part of the city, each with its own story. He spoke about the child-giving powers of Lolark Well and how people flock to it from all walks of life, seeking blessings for a child. Tulsidas’s house has its own stories, ofcourse. We visited Gorakshnath Mandir, Sankata Mandir, and hidden gems like Bindu Madhav Mandir in the north, each with its share of stories. It was amazing the way he guided us through lanes reaching various ghats and palaces built along the ghats, all the while telling us stories of princes and gods from history, mythology, and the Tantra traditions.He amazed us with his knowledge about Kabir and his encounter with his guru Ramananda when we reached the ashram.
That we were guided and told stories about our own culture by a foreigner who has adopted this place as his own tells us so much about the power and layers the place has. It was amazing to understand my own history through a Western eye, someone who probably knew it better than any local because of his quest to get to know this place better and engage with the population. With his quest and engagement, he ensured that he had access to places that perhaps only a few people would have. Of course, being white helps as far as hospitality in India is concerned, that aside Jeremy is a genuine seeker. The fact that he guides the curious is an advantage for the visitor. Our energy could not match his enthusiasm, and we had to conclude the day late in the night.
A visit to Varanasi is always going to be a delightful affair, both for the faithful and for a traveler. But a day with Jeremy made my first visit much more meaningful. The better you know the place, the stronger the calling for the next visit will be.
Varanasi takes you in, making you wander its lanes, explore its history and myth, taste its cuisine, take home the crafts, revel in its arts, meditate on the ghats, and just make yourself one with the atmosphere. As I heard a long time ago from someone I admire, ‘Banaras ki hawa mein kuch alag hi nasha hai’ — I couldn’t agree more.”
Amazingly written. Couldn’t agree more on the on the character of Varanasi and how a right lens helps explore the place better.
Our recent visit was an immersive experience and something that would be stay forever with all the layers intact.
Thank you so much for the guidance which was so enthusiastic.
Thanks Hemangini
Wow…what an amazing insite…Loved the way you narrate the whole journey…Feels almost like walking along those bylanes and bygones…
Thanks Nitin.
This write-up just builds upon my long pending “khawahish” too! A big Thank you to the Seeker in you😊
Thanks Nishtha, Hope you visit it soon enough
Would love to visit Varanasi more so after reading this 🙂
Thanks Yakin
Being a design student, visiting Varanasi is like a dream. Your inspirational blog has fueled my wanderlust even more!
Your blog beautifully captures the essence and vibrancy of this ancient city. Thank you for sharing such an enriching experience.
Thank you for appreciating
Didi, very nicely articulated, felt like I m one of the traveler with you. Pls do keep sharing such a wonderful information with us 🙏🏻👍🏻👏🏻
Thanks Pankaj
Good ,Amazing, Interacting,Good filling for all those ur collection of photography and some thing knows new about,Varanaci Spiritual, and traditional from ur blog.
Thanks.
Thanks
Thanks for all this information
Very well written. It’s almost like a trip to Varanasi.
Thanks
Nicely pen down Krushna !!
As if one can feel that he is there ..
Thanks and best wishes.
Keep up the good work.
God bless !!
Thanks Arvinder. Do check other posts too
Very nicely written! Varanasi is on my list of places to travel after reading your blog!
Thank you Ashish. That definitely is a must visit place
Well written. While Varanasi dates back to history of mankind, name stands for combination of river Varuna and Aasi. River Varuna is the existing river and Aasi is no more existing though there is the ghat named after it Aasi Ghat.
That is so true. Though Assi ghat holds Subah e Banaras every morning. You can check more with the links below the blog