As a newlywed couple, we embarked on a journey to Agra shortly after touching down in Delhi from our sojourn in Kathmandu. We set aside a day from our brief stay in Delhi to visit Agra. The beauty of the Taj Mahal struck us, even on a hot and humid June afternoon. However, I couldn’t determine whether it was the monument’s portrayal of love that had the desired effect on us, or if it was simply the joy of our newlywed life, as often experienced in arranged marriages. That visit left me yearning to return to this admired monument of love, preferably during a more favorable season and time of day. Little did I know that it would take another 27 years to fulfill that desire.
Agra is situated in a subtropical zone in the Gangetic plains, characterized by a typically hot, humid, and monsoon climate. It is best visited during months other than the scorching summer period from March to June, when the soaring temperatures and intense heat can dampen spirits. The ideal months to visit are October to February, aligning with many other destinations in the Indian subcontinent. Serendipitously, when we planned our tour in February to visit Agra, the full moon was scheduled to grace the day of our visit. It felt like a sign from the divine, beckoning me to witness the Taj Mahal in all its glory and varied beauty.
With three UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Agra fort, Fatehpur Sikri and Taj Mahal gracing this compact city of Agra, it stands as a dream destination for enthusiasts worldwide. I can safely say that every Indian harbors a desire to visit this particular place at least once in her lifetime, to bask in the magic of love embodied by the Taj Mahal. Constructed by Emperor Shah Jahan for his beloved wife, it stands as an expression of his profound affection towards her. The Taj Mahal possesses the remarkable ability to stir emotions if one surrenders to its allure. The crescendo to visit the Taj Mahal builds as one reaches and visits the Agra Fort, the place from where the emperor spent his last years bound yet in love with his Taj Mahal, watching it every day from the fort through its multiple openings. One witnesses the beauty from afar, wanting to visit it soon.
Moonlight visits to Agra are limited to just five days a month, coinciding with the full moon, with a mere 50 people permitted per batch for a 30-minute window. As we arrived at the East Gate around 10 pm, the palpable excitement among our small group was undeniable. The full moon itself carries an inherent emotional weight, inspiring poets and finding expression in various cultures. When this celestial phenomenon intersects with the monument of love, its impact is magnified. The anticipation of witnessing such a spectacle was, to say the least, exhilarating. Being escorted to the viewing platform under the cover of night, with the highest security measures in place, added to the excitement.
Upon reaching the viewing platform, the encounter with the beauty is sudden, with all artificial lights extinguished, leaving only the silver beams of moonlight to illuminate the white marble. This ethereal scene is further enhanced by the reflection in the dark waters of the still body in front. The experience is mesmerizing, evoking a sense of reverie as everyone present silently drinks in the beauty. The only complaint is that the return to reality comes too soon, long before one would wish it to end. Nevertheless, this encounter was enough to ignite our desire to visit the monument before sunrise.
The Taj Mahal opens its gates to visitors 30 minutes before sunrise. Unsurprisingly, this encounter proved to be even more special than the previous night. Upon entering the renowned South Gate, the Taj Mahal revealed itself in all its ethereal beauty against the pre-sunrise dark blue sky. It seemed to float above the ground, captivating everyone who beheld it and mesmerizing all. Every moment spent in the complex became one of the most beautiful times also thanks to the ‘gulabi thand’ that offered such pleasurable relief.
But more than that, it was how with each passing minute and the changing sky during the sunrise, the monument exhibited different forms of beauty that made the visit one to remember for a lifetime. It transitioned from a floating delicate beauty to a glowing soft golden wonder in the early morning light, and eventually to a white wonder as it reflected itself in the blue water bodies in front, with the sun rising in the sky with each passing hour. This evoked various emotions with every minute that passed. From every angle, it inspired awe, and from every visitor, it sparked fascination. Everyone, including excitedly dressed foreigners, desired that famous shot in front of the Taj. Enthusiasts sought to capture its splendor through their lenses as the Taj Mahal is rightly a photographer’s delight in all hours of the day. Yet, despite the excitement, the place remained quiet, softly humming, as if it were poetry unfolding in the tranquil morning hours.
Every aspect of the Taj Mahal is flawless: the material, form, proportion, grand scale, foreground, background, setting, and framing. There is no doubt about the intentions of the Emperor or the genius of the architect. While I have visited many architectural wonders that have left me in awe with their grandeur, technology, beauty, and materials, the Taj Mahal stands alone in its ability to evoke emotions typically reserved for majestic snow peaks in the Himalayas, splendid beaches on the western coast, or serene lakes in verdant valleys. This is love in its purest form. The Taj Mahal has continued to inspire and evoke emotions for the past 400 years, transcending boundaries of race, class, gender, language, age, or religion. Its enduring appeal speaks to the universality of its beauty and the power of love.
This visit has reaffirmed my promise to myself to frequent this wonder more often, allowing me to visit those stirring emotions within me repeatedly. This experience also inspired me to recreate my parents’ picture taken 35 years ago in front of the Taj Mahal, with my husband, creating a small but significant memory. I hope that my kids will come here to recreate the same pictures with the partners they find and love.
Beautifully written!
Thank you