Mandu – Experience of Time Travel Journey, Architecture & Royal Palaces
A dear friend of mine in Indore had always urged me to visit Mandu, or as it’s known locally in the Malwa region, Mandav. She described it as one of the most romantic places to visit, especially during the monsoon months.
It had long been on my list of places to see, and then suddenly one Thursday, we decided to visit it on the upcoming weekend.The unplanned, spur-of-the-moment visit turned out to be one of the most memorable experiences, even after more than 10 years have passed after the visit.
It helped that Mandu is very well connected. It’s just 28 kilometers from Dhamnod, a town on the Mumbai-Agra Highway.
As we arrived here, we were welcomed and pampered by people we only distantly knew, with such amazing hospitality that we were overwhelmed. Buoyed by such a great start to the day, we were in an amazing mood by the time we reached Mandu on that September weekend.
We began our journey by visiting Baj Bahadur Palace and Rani Rupmati’s Pavilion. The place instantly captivated us with its courtyards, hidden staircases, water bodies, and beautiful setting. These ruins had a story to tell about the impossible romance between Baj Bahadur and Rani Rupmati. Our experience was further enriched by a local who played melodious tunes on the flute, transporting us to the era when the lovers must have roamed those hauntingly beautiful places. Their romantic tale tragically ended as the Mughals invaded Mandu, yet their folklore continues to engage and mesmerize both locals and visitors alike.
As we moved to the main and most visited complex, the Royal Enclave, heavy rain started pouring. As everyone ran for shelter, the complex presented itself as a rain-soaked feminine beauty, with the wetness only enhancing the contours and textures of Jahaz Mahal, bewitching the unsuspecting observer. Indeed, this is one of the places you should visit in the monsoon.
Once the rain receded, a fresh and pristine beauty of the whole complex emerged, captivating all and making everyone joyously explore the complex. We continued to explore with newfound energy and a knowledgeable guide. As the sun set, an urge to revisit the complex the next morning arose, ending the day on a high and hopeful note, eagerly looking forward to the next morning’s adventure.
The next day turned out to be the day of time travel.
As we explored various zones and places, including Dai ka Mahal (yes, a palace for the Royal Nanny!), Dai ki Behen ka Mahal, Malik Mughith Masjid, and Caravan Sarai, we found ourselves as the sole visitors amongst those ruins. Abandoned by time and history, these places came alive around us. The architecture of the place, even in ruins, has the power to evoke emotions, create memories, and transport you to a realm which does not belong to the present.
We proceeded to revisit the Royal Enclave immediately afterwards as desired the previous evening.
This is the most significant and celebrated zone of Mandu, and rightly so. When you visit it, the place feels like poetry spoken in the words of brick and mortar. It can move you, it can make you dreamy. But mostly, what it does is make you play and get lost in its labyrinth.
As you move from the bright and airy chambers of Jahaz Mahal to the dark depths of Chand Baoli with its multiple levels of darkness, and the Hamam with its beautiful play of light, encountering the magnificent Hindola Mahal on your way, the journey becomes a captivating experience. As you continue to Jal Mahal, a building with a brilliant water system in place, you marvel at the wisdom and vision of the ancients.
The journey itself is by no means less engaging than a good novel or a well-made movie. You love to get lost as you discover dark alleys, hidden niches, bright courtyards, and grand, inviting halls, all ready to welcome you in.
A visitor’s readiness to engage can transform her visit to a place into a story to be cherished for a lifetime. Our morning exploration of the complex in the sunlight only heightened the emotion and experience of time travel.
As we explored the Jama Masjid, Asharfi Mahal, and the Tomb of Hoshang Shah in the vicinity, we realized that each place holds its own story. These stories are not conveyed through words but through the spaces, arches, domes, stones, scale, light, and darkness, as the buildings converse with the visitors.
Our visit to Mandu unfolded as a surrealistic experience, a journey to the past within the past. It’s as if the entire place, with its palaces, mosques, sarais, and tombs, is frozen in the time of its owners. The emperors and inhabitants constructed this city with great pomp, grandeur, and love, and now the buildings recount a vibrant past that was once filled with life and splendor.
The place bears witness to the centuries it has seen, still speaking to each visitor about those times. It guides them through its layers and envelops them in its charm.
As we bid farewell to Mandu, we made a stop to admire the dilapidated yet magnificent ruins of Gada Shah’s shop and the obligatory Delhi Gate along our way. Enchanted, dreamy, and lost in our recent adventure of time travel, we departed the city.
Our journey reached a serene and tranquil conclusion with a visit to Neelkanth Mandir, built by Emperor Akbar on the outskirts as we were leaving the town. The temple’s peaceful atmosphere and spiritual ambiance brought us back to the realm of reality after our enchanting exploration of Mandu.
I would highly recommend this place at the heart of Malwa to all the dreamers out there who believe in the romance and adventure of time, because as someone has rightly said, “Every moment is a gateway to the past or the future; we just have to learn how to step through.” Here, in Mandu, you’ll find your place and moment—it’s a destination where the beauty of the present intertwines with the mysteries of the past, offering a timeless experience that transcends ordinary travel. Embrace the magic of Mandu, and let its enchanting allure transport you to realms where dreams and reality meet.
