Korlai Village : A Hidden Coastal Gem

The Winter Longing for a Coastal Getaway

As the temperatures dip and we snuggle into warm sweaters and blankets, what one craves is bright sunshine, cozy corners, some soothing music, and, of course, a steady supply of hot coffee or chai on these lazy afternoons. Such moments make one long for a coastal getaway, where winter mornings are warm and evenings are breezy, inviting you to gaze at the infinite waters while lounging on sandy beaches all day.

A Visit to Korlai

I am reminded of one such visit to the coastal village of Korlai, which I have been fortunate enough to visit twice. This small village on the Arabian Sea coast is located 22 kilometers south of Alibaug, a more popular getaway for Mumbaikars. Known for its 16th-century Portuguese fort, this quiet and cozy village has its own charm. The place is a stretch of land protruding into the sea, flanked by water on both sides, ultimately culminating in the fort built atop a hill. The fort served as a strategic outpost to monitor marine intruders and invaders, one of many established along the Konkan coastline.

I first visited this village in 2018 for a study tour with my students. Recommended by a colleague for its historical, cultural, and social character, Korlai made for an interesting case study for our first-year architecture students. We looked forward to spending three days in this picturesque coastal setting.

Exploring the Village

We entered the village through the village square, featuring a temple, a gram panchayat office, and a quaint post office, with only a handful of people loitering and chatting around. This initial glimpse hinted at the quiet and lazy days ahead. Expecting the hustle and bustle of a typical fishing village, we were slightly disappointed at first. However, as we began exploring, this quietude grew on us. The village revealed its many layers over the next two days.

On this side of the village, we found streets laid out in a grid pattern, lined with beautiful small houses. Many of these homes were shuttered, their inhabitants having moved to cities like Mumbai and Pune for better job prospects. The calm of the village was inviting, and one felt tempted to sit on those deserted verandas and chat with the locals. Some of these streets led to the coastline, where the vastness of the Arabian Sea unfolded.

Hidden Architectural Gem

While exploring these lanes, we stumbled upon an architectural gem designed by the architect Nariman (Nari) Gandhi. Built with insight, passion, and patience in equal measure, this beach house, constructed with brick and featuring a sloping roof, stood out yet blended harmoniously with the village’s setting. The generous caretaker allowed us to explore this private property, and we spent some beautiful afternoons in its open yet sheltered living area. We marveled at the beach, the endless sea, the cool breeze, and, most of all, the brilliance of the design and its intricate construction details.

This house remains one of the finest examples of architecture I have encountered to date. Discovering such a treasure in this quiet, lazy village was an unexpected delight. It reflected the charm of the place, where the owner could retreat from the busy life of Mumbai to spend tranquil moments amidst nature.

The Vibrant Fishermen’s Settlement

While the students busied themselves studying this part of the village, we ventured towards the fort the next day. Along the way, we discovered the truly vibrant part of the village. Located at the ideal spot for docking ships and boats, this area was where all the fishermen of the village resided. This part of Korlai was alive with the sounds and sights of daily life. The settlement’s crooked lanes, filled with unexpected twists, captivated us at every turn, drawing us into its vibrant rhythm.

Each house was painted in vibrant hues of yellow, blue, green, and more, reflecting the energy and vibrancy of the fishermen’s community. Life seemed like a celebration here, bustling with activities such as boating, fishing, and drying fish and other sea products. Tulsi Vrindavans stood prominently in front of each house, adding a cultural and spiritual touch to the settlement. This area, brimming with life, perfectly complemented the quieter, more organized part of the village. Life never stopped here.

Discovering the Fort and Panoramic Views

As we made our way to the fort, we passed through winding paths along the drying yards, filled with the thick smell of the sea and drying fish. Thick vegetation surrounded the fort’s base, and we ascended via steep steps through a small, protected entrance. By the time we reached the fort, the evening was setting in. Though mostly in ruins now, the fort stood as a testament to the region’s rich history. One could only imagine its grandeur during its heyday, with a now-collapsed church at its center once standing tall and majestic.

Walking along the fort’s longish north-south stretch, we could appreciate its strategic importance, offering an unobstructed view of the vast ocean and its western coastline in the North. On the southern side, we could gaze at the village, spotting areas we had explored and others waiting to be discovered after the descent. The lighthouse at the fort’s base on the western side added to its charm. The fort remains the perfect spot to marvel at panoramic views of the sea, the village, and the surrounding vegetation.

A Timeless Memory of Korlai

By the third day, the village had truly grown on me. Its layers of history, culture, and society made it a place of endless discovery. Even years later, Korlai remains a part of me, with its calm offering moments for reflection and its vibrancy providing the energy to celebrate life.

Korlai, a hidden gem on the Konkan coast, is a captivating blend of history, tranquility, and vibrancy. The simplicity of village life, the allure of its architectural treasures, and the majesty of the fort and sea make it an unforgettable experience. For anyone seeking a serene escape intertwined with stories of the past and the charm of the present, along with lazy afternoons along the sea, Korlai offers the perfect retreat.