Gwalior Fort: A Journey Through Centuries

A Chance Stop, Not a Planned Visit

I reached Gwalior almost by chance — to spend a day between two activities. Normally, I study the background of any historical or cultural site I plan to visit. But this time, I didn’t do that. One of my dear friends had mentioned that the city and the gwalior fort weren’t very interesting, which made me even less inclined to do research. I entered Gwalior feeling neutral, more excited about staying at an 18th-century property of a Maratha Sardar that had been converted into a luxury stay than about visiting the fort itself.

As we arrived at our stay in the evening, we were mesmerized by a group of peacocks wandering through the property. Surrounded by an ancient temple, a puja grih, chhatris, and a restaurant housed in a historical structure, the place was set in the midst of vast green space. This tranquil setting was the perfect mood for the next day’s exploration of the city, known mainly for its fort.

Climbing Towards the Gwalior Fort Top and  Discovering Centuries 

We entered the Gwalior fort from Urvai gate in the south. The road from here climbs steeply to the hilltop — long and meandering, it passes the famous 12th-century Jain caves and carvings, known for their scale and beauty.

We soon reached the hilltop. The Gwalior fort is spread over 3 square kilometres. The most amazing of all the buildings which were built over the last 15 centuries and are  scattered all over the hilltop, greeted us with its mesmerising blue tile work on sandstone. The turrets with 3D carvings and extensive inlay of blue tiles — including depictions of animals and, in one case, ducks marching in a line — and other motifs adorned the palace walls, connecting the ground to the sky above.

We were taken aback by the beauty of the Man Mandir Palace and were truly mesmerised.

The knowledgeable guide told us about the incredible and long history of Gwalior fort. It has been ruled by many — from the Guptas to the Scindias — each contributing to its growth.

Founded by Suraj Sen in the 7th century, the Gwalior fort draws its name from a hermit called Gwalipa, who is said to have cured Suraj Sen’s leprosy — on the condition that the fort be named after him.

Structures from the 6th century to the 18th century are strewn all over the Gwalior fort, built by various dynasties- pratiharas, Kacchapas, Tomars, Suris, Mughals, Jats, British and Scindia among them- in evolving architectural styles. From rock carvings of the 7th and 12th centuries, temples of the 8th to 11th centuries, to palaces from the 15th and 16th centuries — Man Mandir, Vikram, and Karn palaces — and Mughal additions like Jahangir and Shah Jahan palaces, the fort holds them all. There’s even a British weapons factory built later on the hilltop.

I was bowled over by the historical and cultural significance of the place and was keen to explore everything it had to offer.

The Medley of Blue Tiles and Pink Stone

Man Mandir Palace, the most marvellous and celebrated structure, was built by Raja Man Singh Tomar of the Tomar dynasty in the late 15th century — mostly in a Hindu style, with minimal Islamic influences. It has four levels — two above ground and two below — with two beautiful courtyards. The blue tile work on the sandstone complements the vast blue sky above. In these courtyards, the pink stone and blue tiles create an exquisite medley.

As we approached the Queen’s chambers, which were later turned into a prison by Aurangzeb, an unmistakable air of privacy settled in. The brilliant way by which the stairs descended to the lower stories — taking both the climber and the sunlight below to light the chambers — was enchanting. The private baths, the sound-conducting niches, and the reflected light made this place magical. The lower chambers are lit by cleverly designed openings on the fort walls that from where one can also see the city below.

We then moved to Karn and Vikram Palaces. Karn Palace had a brilliant system of hammam or spa for royalty. The ground in front of it offered a beautiful view of the city and mountains beyond.

Surprisingly, though the Jahangir and Shah Jahan palaces were grand in scale, they lacked the artistic taste usually associated with these Mughal art-lovers.

Temples, Tales, and Forgotten Inscriptions

While returning, we visited Assi Khamba Bawdi, built by Man Singh. The adjoining structure was a Shiv temple, later used by Jahangir to imprison young Sikh Guru Hargobind Singh. In memory of his release of 52 kings along with himself, a gurudwara now stands at on the hill top.

An interesting structure of  Sahastrabahu Temple, locally called Saas Bahu Temple —was visible from Shah Jahan Palace. The local deformed name comes from the fact that there are two temples: the larger one dedicated to Lord Vishnu and a smaller pavilion-like one overlooking the city. This 11th-century temple, almost contemporary to Khajuraho, differs from them in style. The scale of the sabhamandap is huge, and I was blown away by its unusual height for a temple of its time. Light filters through a grid of stone elements, and the pavilion is positioned perfectly to observe the city.

We didn’t want to leave, enjoying the cool breeze and panoramic views of the city from Gwalior fort. Next we visited the 9th-century Teli Ka Mandir — the tallest and most magnificent temple in the fort complex. One of its kind, it combines a Dravidian square-shaped shikhara with Nagara-style decorations. Dedicated to Vishnu, it was built by the Pratihara king Mihir Bhoja and later restored during British times.

As our auto dropped us back at Man Singh Palace, we exited from Hathi Pol — the strategically placed elephant gate. Along the way, there were many caves carved into the fort wall, and at times, even massive sculptures. We also stopped by Chaturbhuj Mandir, commonly known as the Zero Temple. Built in the 9th century, this small but significant temple contains the second-oldest known inscription of the number zero. As a lover of mathematics, I always take pride in the fact that India gave zero to the world, making the world of mathematics and science easier to explore. This encounter filled me with excitement and awe—a rare moment where historical legacy met personal passion in the most unexpected way.

Of Love Stories and Museum Treasures

Before exiting the Kila Gate, we visited Gurjari Mahal, the palace of the queen from Gurjar community—also called Mrignayani in folklore. Enamoured by her beauty and bravery, Raja Man Singh wanted to marry this fierce girl who was brought up in humble surroundings and belonging to a lower caste.

Mrignayani had only two conditions: she would not live with the high-caste queens- she must have her own palace and she would also drink water only from her village—around 20 kilometres away. Much in love, the king fulfilled all the conditions. Gurjari Mahal lies at the foothills of the fort. Plumbing pipelines from the village to the palace can still be seen in the basement of what is now an archaeological museum.

As I moved around appreciating the sculptures and artefacts from the region, belonging to the ancient era. I was overcome with emotion, knowing how diverse, varied, and rich our history and culture are.

Every part of this great land holds jewels waiting to be discovered by seekers. Gwalior Fort, one of the oldest defensive forts in India, is among the brightest of these jewels. I’m glad I visited this place of such historical significance.

A Fort Worth Getting Lost In

But Gwalior fort is not just for lovers of history — it’s for anyone who loves beauty carved in stone, who loves the breeze on the mountaintops, who wants to observe the city from the hills, and most of all — it is for anyone who wants to get sucked into the labyrinth of the fort and get lost.

Reflecting on the visit, I can confidently say that Gwalior fort wasn’t just another stop on my journey—it was an unexpected revelation. Without the burden of expectations, I was able to immerse myself fully in the fort’s grandeur and history. The fort, with its beauty, stories, and cultural treasures, offered a fresh perspective on both history and personal discovery. Sometimes, it’s best to walk into the unknown without preparation and let the place reveal its wonders. Gwalior didn’t just add to my list of destinations; it gave me a deeper appreciation for India’s rich heritage.