Orchha: Magestic Architecture, Peaceful Betwa, and the Ever-Present Raja Ram

Orchha — My Long-Awaited Journey

I had been wanting to write about this visit for a long time — though certainly not as long as I waited for the visit itself to happen.

It was around 17 years ago that a dear friend of mine visited Central India and told me about the wonderful palaces of Orchha and Datia. The memory of that chat stayed. My Orchha travel experience began as a seed in that conversation.

Since the best time to visit Central India coincides with the school schedule, it was not until my daughters left for college that I finally started planning to visit this beautiful land. Twice I had to cancel my tickets. Meanwhile, my sister had already visited Orchha twice and wondered how I, an architect and an avid traveller, had not visited the place yet. The thirst to see it grew even more. So when a group of my colleagues decided to go for a heritage tour, I was the first one to suggest Orchha and Datia this time.

Entering Orchha

After much planning, we reached Jhansi station on a cold February morning. The morning air was fresh, and we entered Orchha through an ancient gate, only to spot the high spire of the Chaturbhuj Temple in the distance. The excitement was on.

Orchha was one of the seats of the Bundela chiefs and was founded by Rudra Pratap Singh in the early 16th century on the banks of the Betwa River. It saw its heyday for more than a century until it was captured by Aurangzeb. A princely town situated on the banks of the beautiful Betwa River, this place still retains its old-world charm with its palaces, temples, and chhatris. Orchha lies 16 kilometres from Jhansi, making it one of the most visited places in the Gwalior–Jhansi circuit.

The Fort and Raja Mahal

We decided to visit the main fort first. I had heard so much about its beauty and grandeur that I could hardly wait to reach it. We crossed the bridge that separates the town from the fort and entered through the grand gateway, which led us to a courtyard at an upper level. We decided to visit the Raja Mahal first, which lies on the right, just as the Jahangir Mahal lies in the front. The Raja Mahal was built earlier than the Jahangir Palace.

As we entered Raja Mahal, we were greeted by a series of courtyards leading through multiple archways to a grand central courtyard — from more public areas like the Diwan-e-Aam and the stepped court to the more private residences of the king. The courtyard is surrounded by multi-storied covered corridors, all holding beautiful chambers at intervals. The grand chambers on the ground level had multiple layers to them, all with exquisitely painted ceilings telling stories from mythology. Each chamber had the same stories told on its ceiling, yet each differed in its expression, making each one as interesting as the other.

Beautiful openings brought in light to the chambers, at the same time giving privacymeant for the royals. As you climb to the upper storeys via multiple staircases — open ones from the ground or hidden ones from upper levels — the excitement of discovery never leaves you.

Moving along arch-lined corridors opening on both sides, you stumble upon new chambers, dark staircases, terraces, ancient toilets, and beautiful covered balconies looking into the courtyard below. But most of all, you find stunning views of the surroundings — spotting spires and temples. It is from here that the Chaturbhuj Temple is framed so beautifully. You spot the river, old havelis, and the outer walls of the mahal itself.

One can move alone and engage with this lovely play of space or move in a group, excitedly discovering the labyrinth — which is so well-lit yet so layered — and each experience rewards you. The scale, the grandeur, the simplicity is simply brilliant. We were mesmerised by it all.

Jahangir Mahal and the Havelis

We then moved to Jahangir Mahal, which we had been spotting from the Raja Mahal. As the name suggests, it was built by King Vir Singh Deo in honour of the Mughal prince, who wanted the Bundela army to collaborate with him. This one was built for his visit — a place for his reception. It is a more elaborate evolution of the previous palace.

The geometry of the place drives its design. The courtyards placed at multiple levels break the ground, and the chhatris adorned on all levels break the sky, making this place ethereal. Delicate stone jharokhas, arched openings, domed chambers on the corners, airy chhatris on multiple levels, the stone lattice work, the protruding balconies, and the multilevel corridors make for an absolutely befitting complement to Jehangir’s reception — known for his exquisite taste in art and architecture.

From here, we could see ruins of old havelis on the southern side and some beautiful gardens on the north. This is where the rich and powerful resided on the banks of the Betwa. Though tired, we could not resist exploring a few of these havelis — each one different from the other, the ruins telling stories of a life well-lived, a life of taste and affluence. It was heartening to see proper restoration work going on to bring back the splendor of these havelis, which must have seen so many glorious days of celebrations, colours, and life.

The place has multiple stories — of princes who were brave, of queens who were strong, of courtesans who were patriots, of soldiers who were loyal, and of people who were believed in devine. All this came alive in a rather melodramatic light and sound show hosted at the lower courtyard of the fort in the evening, which we enjoyed as a group.

Raja Ram Temple

One of the very interesting stories is that of Raja Ram Temple — where Lord Ram is considered the king. The idol was brought to the palace by Queen Kamlapati Ganesh. It is believed that Rama decided to reside in the palace of the queen rather than the grand Chaturbhuj Temple built for the deity. Since then, Rama is Raja here — he rules the place, hence Raja Ram.

We ended our day with a darshan at Raja Ram Temple and an amazing dinner at a restaurant across. We were already looking forward to sunrise at the chhatris on the southern part of the town, on the banks of the Betwa River.

Sunrise at the Chhatris

As the sun rose the next day, the chhatris glowed in the soft light of the morning sun. Everything looked golden, and the spires rose towards the sky, creating a perfect view and a delight to photograph.

Each of these chhatris complemented the other . All the chhatris are dedicated to the kings of the dynasty except one in the far end dedicated to Kumwar Ganesh, the queen. Each looks similar—multi-storied, with multiple arched openings. These are lined along beautiful gardens, taking inspiration from Mughal layouts. The chhatris look like a Hindu interpretation of the tombs of the ruling Mughals.

It was morning, yet we were so excited—to hear the chirping of birds, to see the rabbits jumping and hopping in the gardens, to see the flight of birds, and basically, just being in the place.

Temples of Orchha

We explored the temples before lunch. Each had a style of its own. Each had its unique spaces. Each gave us unique memories. All these temples were built during the reign of Bundelas in the 16th and 17th century.

Chaturbhuj Temple delighted us with its grand central space and its dark and winding stairs reaching to the very top, from where we viewed the town, fort, and vultures.

Raja Ram Temple, with its beautiful courtyard and the display of devotion — locals singing and waiting for that one glimpse — was a sight to behold.

It was Lakshmi Narayan Temple that engaged us the most, with a detached corridor running at an angle to the main temple. The corridor had ceilings painted with stories from mythology, history, wars, and the surroundings.
 

A Special Afternoon

It was time for lunch, and we were delighted to have it with a local family. Having local delicacies in a vernacular setting made this visit even more special — the hospitality of the host, the eagerness to serve the delicacies, the delicious meal, the variety — all made for an unforgettable meal.

We ended this visit with rafting on the Betwa. Rafting is always a delightful and fun activity, but what made this one special was the character of the river — healthy and flowing. In times when so many rivers in our great land are getting polluted, witnessing a healthy, full river along a forest line felt like a blessing. Rafting in it was pure magic.
Along the river we spotted the fort, the entrances, some havelis, a few temples, and the chhatris. The visit felt complete.

Orchha Stays with You

After waiting so long for this visit to take shape, I carried a quiet fear that it might not live up to my expectations. But it proved worth every bit of that wait — offering me a glimpse into history, deep devotion, and the calming beauty of nature.

Orchha retains its old-world charm because it is blessed with stunning architecture, unwavering faith in Raja Ram, and the soothing presence of the Betwa River.

The place stays with you long after you have left — in its rivers, in its temples, in the warm smiles of its people, and in the echo of stories whispered through its palaces. My Orchha travel experience was not just a journey through heritage but a journey through time itself — a reminder that beauty survives in stone, faith endures in devotion, and serenity flows where history and nature meet. It is a place that calls you back, gently yet firmly, promising that every visit will unfold something new. Orchha is not just a destination; it is an experience — one that lingers, enriches, and transforms.